Oliviero Toscani has died

Bonjour fashion lovers.

Yesterday, we lost one of the greatest fashion photographers of our time, Oliviero Toscani. I couldn't bear the thought of just posting a quick message on Instagram. I promised my community a more personal reflection, and here it is.

Everyone knows his bold, provocative campaigns, especially during his time at Benetton. But there's one in particular that holds a special place in my heart, a connection that I doubt he was ever aware of: his 2007 'No Anorexia' campaign for Nolita.

The image featured Isabelle Caro, a young woman suffering from anorexia nervosa. There were no filters, no softening of the harsh reality. We saw Isabelle as she was: sick, malnourished, and dehydrated. The controversy was immediate and intense. Progressive France, disappointingly, refused to publish it, deeming it too harsh (Elle France declared they preferred a softer approach), while in Italy, only Repubblica, Sole 24 Ore, Libero, Il Giornale, and Vanity Fair had the courage to publish it.

The debate was fierce and brutal. Even eating disorder associations disagreed with Toscani's choice. But as a woman who has spent years battling anorexia (you never fully recover), I applauded his direct and uncompromising approach. When I first saw that photo, I thought: finally, someone has the courage to show, not hide, to scream, not whisper. I felt a sense of gratitude. Discussions were everywhere at the time, but many people spoke without truly understanding the issue, just repeating what they'd heard. But at least the conversation was happening, a lid was finally being lifted on a boiling pot that no one had dared to open before Toscani.

That's why I feel such a personal connection to Oliviero Toscani. It's a bond I'll always carry with me. The news of his illness and subsequent death hit me deeply.

I'll miss his irreverence, his courage. His photos weren't just about selling products; they were vehicles for important social and cultural messages. Because fashion has a social responsibility too.

Thank you, Oliviero.