Pierpaolo Piccioli: 25 Years of Wonder at Valentino and a New Chapter at Balenciaga

Bonjour fashion lovers,

I’m thrilled—and, for once, grateful that the rumors turned out to be true.

Pierpaolo Piccioli is officially the new creative director of Balenciaga.
I had hoped for it, waited for it, longed for it.

Because his mood, his aesthetic, and his gentlemanly presence in the fashion world were deeply missed. His poetic voice—gracious yet powerful—seemed to fall silent after his departure from Valentino in 2024. But now, he’s back. Ready to begin a bold new chapter.

And before we look ahead, we look back.
Because twenty-five years at Valentino cannot be forgotten—they must be cherished.

25 Iconic Moments by Pierpaolo Piccioli at Valentino

Fall 2013 Ready-to-Wear – Flemish Influence

Serene silhouettes inspired by Flemish masters and Delft ceramics. A quiet, contemplative elegance.

Spring 2014 Ready-to-Wear – A Fashion Opera

Fringes, embroidery, and symbolism. A grand narrative inspired by Roman heritage and Native American motifs.

Fall 2015 Ready-to-Wear – Artistic Muses

An homage to Emilie Flöge and Celia Birtwell. Gold textures, velvet, and a modern celebration of muses and artists.

Spring 2016 Ready-to-Wear – African Inspirations

A bold, thoughtful collection inspired by African culture and artistry. Fashion with a message.

Fall 2016 Ready-to-Wear – Ballet and Modern Dance

Tulle, motion, and softness. A tribute to the expressive movement of Martha Graham and contemporary dance.

Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear – Solo Debut

His first collection after Maria Grazia Chiuri’s exit. Inspired by medieval iconography and Hieronymus Bosch, it marked the beginning of a more intimate Valentino.

Spring 2019 Haute Couture – The All-Black Cast

Inspired by Cecil Beaton’s 1948 photo, Piccioli cast only Black models. A striking gesture of inclusion and representation in couture.

Spring 2022 Haute Couture – "Anatomy of Couture"

A celebration of every body. Models of all shapes, sizes, and ages walked the runway. A powerful statement of beauty and empathy.

Fall 2022 Ready-to-Wear – “Pink PP”

One color, endless expression. The signature pink of Piccioli became an icon, and a viral fashion phenomenon.

Fall 2023 Haute Couture – Kaia’s “Jeans-not-Jeans” Moment

At Château de Chantilly, Kaia Gerber opened the show wearing a look that mimicked denim—yet was entirely crafted in beaded silk gazar. A couture illusion, merging streetwear and high craftsmanship.

Spring/Summer 2024 – The Final Bow

A whispered farewell. Black, fluid, essential. The purest expression of Piccioli’s language.

And Now… Balenciaga

Now, we stand before the meeting of opposites.
Piccioli’s lyrical couture entering the brutalist, conceptual world of Balenciaga.

But this isn’t a clash—it’s a chance.
A chance to rewrite the language of a house that has always stood for vision. From Cristóbal to Ghesquière to Demna… and now, to Pierpaolo.

His romanticism will know how to be sharp.
His softness will become political.
And his fashion will once again tell stories. Whispering. Stirring. Awakening.

Personally, I couldn’t wait to see his signature walk again.

Welcome back, Maestro.

Always Fashion, Always Black, Always Paris,
Emanuela